Carolina Herrera bids her line adieu with elegant flourish

Fashion from Carolina Herrera collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Andres Kudacki)
The Ralph Lauren collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Richard Drew)
The Ralph Lauren collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Richard Drew)
Fashion from Oscar de la Renta is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Feb. 12, 2018, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from Carolina Herrera collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Andres Kudacki)
Wale Oyejide, founder of the brand Ikire Jones, stands with his menswear design for a fashion collection inspired by the superhero film “Black Panther,” Monday, Feb. 12, 2018, in New York. The designs will be auctioned to benefit the charity Save the Children. (AP Photo/Leanne Italie)
The Ralph Lauren collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Richard Drew)
Fashion from a small collection inspired by the upcoming superhero film “Black Panther,” are displayed in New York on Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. The designs were created by the brands Chromat, Cushnie et Ochs, Fear of God, LaQuan Smith, Ikire Jones, Sophie Theallet and TOME, with capsule collections by jewelry designer Douriean Fletcher and shoe designer Aurora James of Brother Vellies. (AP Photo/Leanne Italie)
Fashion from Carolina Herrera collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Andres Kudacki)
The Ralph Lauren collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Richard Drew)
Fashion from Oscar de la Renta is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Feb. 12, 2018, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
The Ralph Lauren collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Richard Drew)
Fashion from Oscar de la Renta is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Feb. 12, 2018, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion designer Carolina Herrera acknowledges applause after her fashion show during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Andres Kudacki)
Fashion from Oscar de la Renta is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Feb. 12, 2018, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from Oscar de la Renta is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Feb. 12, 2018, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion designer LaQuan Smith stands with his jumpsuit and trench coat created for a small collection inspired by the film “Black Panther,” Monday, Feb. 12, 2018 in New York. The design and several others will be auctioned to benefit the nonprofit Save the Children. (AP Photo/Leanne Italie)
Fashion from Carolina Herrera collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Andres Kudacki)
The Ralph Lauren collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Richard Drew)
Fashion from Oscar de la Renta is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Feb. 12, 2018, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from Oscar de la Renta is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Feb. 12, 2018, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

NEW YORK — Highlights from New York Fashion Week on Monday:

___

CAROLINA HERRERA BIDS ADIEU TO HER LINE WITH A FLOURISH

Carolina Herrera has represented refined, elegant glamour for decades, so it was fitting that she invoked classic styles as she delivered her final New York Fashion Week collection as the designer of her self-titled line.

Monday's event was held in an event space at the Museum of Modern Art — a fitting venue, given Herrera's outsized contributions to contemporary fashion over her decades as a designer.

But her collection was timeless — not something that could be relegated to one era. In front of a crowd that included Karlie Kloss, Katie Holmes, Seth Meyers, Anna Wintour, Fran Lebowitz, Andre Leon Talley and fellow designer Calvin Klein, Herrera presented a collection that was both playful and conservative, bold and understated, colorful and muted — meaning she used her last show to feature the depth and versatility of her clothes.

The show, which had a retro jazz soundtrack heavy on Ella Fitzgerald, started out with the basics — a white top with flowing sleeves and black wide-legged pants; a long, billowing black coat; a white coat with a flash of leopard fur on the sleeves. It then segued into more glamorous fare — dresses that could be worn to a formal function, and those clearly designed for a red carpet, with bright pops of color, including heavy doses of pink. There was a pink tuxedo outfit, a magical tulle pink and blue dress, and a black dress completely embellished with feathers that seemed to dance along with the music.

There were also several outfits that mimicked the designer's own signature look — a crisp white collared shirt, coupled with a bold belt and equally bold colorful A-line skirts.

Herrera, who didn't speak to the press at the event, has said that she is stepping down as creative director of the line after Monday's show. Wes Gordon will take over, while Herrera will take on the title of global brand ambassador.

She made sure to share the spotlight as she took her final bow, bringing to the runway about two dozen of her seamstresses. Then, after receiving a bouquet of red flowers, she was embraced by Klein and others, congratulating her on her final flourish, and perhaps on her next chapter.

"Well, it's a bit bittersweet because I just absolutely adore Mrs. Herrera and she herself will be missed in the atelier everyday," said Kloss, one of the faces of the Herrera line. "But her spirit and her timeless style is going to live on forever."

— Nekesa Mumbi Moody and Gina Abdy

___

OSCAR DE LA RENTA SAYS NO MORE RULES

At Oscar de la Renta, the storied label that epitomizes luxury and refinement, designer Laura Kim has a new motto for her clients: "You're not dressing up for your mothers anymore."

Kim and her design partner, Fernando Garcia, are taking the company into the future with skill and craftsmanship (and great fabrics), but also with the view that fashion's rules have changed forever. Or, as Garcia puts it: "There ARE no more rules."

This means that for evening, an outfit can be both grand and casual at the same time. Many of the evening looks Kim and Garcia presented on Monday at their runway show epitomized this idea — for example, a long glittering skirt with embroidered sequins, perhaps in a ballgown shape, but topped with a simple sweater or very light top.

"You can wear a T-shirt to an evening event," Kim said in an interview after the show, "if you can pull it together nicely. I just think there are so many more options to show your creative arc. For us, it's great. It's a fun time." She herself was wearing a tulle T-shirt that could move easily from day to evening.

The designers said their collection was inspired by a memory: A 2014 trip to the Cloisters, the upper Manhattan museum specializing in European medieval art and architecture. Their host: None other than de la Renta himself. (The legendary designer died that same year.)

Memories of that trip got Kim and Garcia looking at Elizabethan embroidery, and they were drawn to a tree-branch pattern that now appears on much of their new collection — for both daytime and evening looks. "It just had this perfect amount of contrast," Garcia said.

Both designers said they were partial to a particular garment: An evening coat in filmy tulle, which appeared in the show in several colors, including black of course. It was a lighter take on the formal evening coat that de la Renta used to do it shiny satin. But it still retained the essence of those earlier garments.

"I think Oscar would have loved that coat," Kim said.

—Jocelyn Noveck

____ RALPH LAUREN HEADS TO JAMAICA

As the Olympic outfitter of Team USA, Lauren's job is done in South Korea, so where to go next?

Under gloomy skies and intermittent sprinkles in New York, he headed for his Jamaica retreat in Montego Bay as inspiration for spring and summer collections for both men and women.

The clothes couldn't have screamed Jamaica louder. They were nautical. They included the yellows and greens of the island country's flag and regatta pennants, along with pops of red and blue in bold graphic designs. There were yachts on wide ties and, well, kind of all over.

And, as always, there was Ralph Lauren himself on the runway for his end-of-show walk and wave to guests that included Hilary Swank, Katie Holmes, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Rachel Brosnahan.

"Everyone wishes for a magical place where they can step out of time and into the beauty of nature," Lauren said in show notes. "I wanted to share the mood, the light, the blue and white freshness of my retreat in Jamaica."

The brand said all of this in crisp cottons and silks, stripes and tie dye. There were patent leather shorts and jackets worthy of a tropical downpour or afternoon deckside. There were also predictable whites in lightweight suiting for men and women, along with some evening looks for the latter.

And they didn't forget the jaunty caps and deck mocs, either.

—Leanne Italie

____

THE BLACK PANTHER ARRIVES AT FASHION WEEK

Marvel Studios sponsored a small "Black Panther"-inspired presentation, "Welcome to Wakanda," on Monday featuring designs by LaQuan Smith, Chromat, Wale Oyejide of the brand Ikire Jones, Fear of God and others, including the jewelry of Douriean Fletcher in a capsule collection.

Among Fletcher's work in the highly anticipated film that opens Friday is a bold amethyst and 18-karat gold plate piece at the top of a costume worn by Angela Bassett's Queen Ramonda. It's featured in one of the movie's posters. Fletcher also hand pounded gold-plate armor pieces for the female warriors of the Dora Milaje.

"I wanted it to resonate with the idea of female empowerment, women that are strong," he said. "I wanted to do something that was sexy and powerful and aggressive because there's a lot of technology in the film."

Oyejide did a men's suit with a coat and scarf. One of his scarves made it into the movie, which he said shows off the nuances of people of color.

"The film is very much about the joy of seeing cultures represented in roles that they are generally not seen in," he said. "There's villainy and heroes, tech genius and romance. People of color are generally presented as a monolithic image. I'm hoping it smashes the door open to show that people can occupy all these spaces."

Cushnie et Ochs, Sophie Theallet and TOME were the other brands invited to participate. Like Fletcher, footwear designer Aurora James was asked to produce a small capsule collection.

You may also interested in

Kerry heading to Africa for talks on counterterrorism

Aug 20, 2016

Kerry heading to Africa for counterterrorism talks, followed by Saudi visit on Yemen conflict

British comic actor, mental health campaigner Brian Rix dies

Aug 20, 2016

Brian Rix, a British comic actor who used his fame to draw attention to the struggles of people with learning disabilities, has died

Samba, reflections and pride in final Rio Olympics party

Aug 22, 2016

Shaking to samba and sharing reflections in uniquely Brazilian words, Olympians and fans said goodbye to the Rio Games with one last big bash that was both revelatory and a sigh of relief

Syok Asia welcomes the generations to witness the beautiful world of art and creativity in Malaysia and the rest of the world.

Contact us: sales@syokasia.com